GATE 2 STREET
Hey everybody! I hope all is well in the “States.” I wanted to write and give you a quick update on what’s been happening so far. Truthfully, not much; but, nonetheless, I tell you a few quick stories. Just for a reference, Okinawa is 14 hours ahead of Atlanta. So, it is currently about 7 AM on Monday morning, November 16th, and I am watching the Cowboys/Packers game – live.
The travel here was long and grueling. It was a 14-hour flight from DC to Tokyo. We flew ANA, which is simply a Japanese commercial airliner. The flight was full and we were crammed into seats with Marines and civilians alike. Fortunately, the plane was a new Boeing 777, which means every seat had its on TV screen, and we had access to a plethora of movies, TV shows, music, etc. If you haven’t seen the movie “500 (Days of Summer),” then I recommend you watching it. Sounds like a pretty good soundtrack, too.
The first thing I noticed was when we checked into the flight at the ANA counter in DC. There were a dozen or so women, and one or two men. Now, two things are interesting to note here. First, the women were doing all the work. The men were pretty much watching and taking instruction from the women. And, when it came time to lift or move a heavy bag, the women worked together to do it. They didn’t need help from a man. Impressive. The second thing I noticed was the large number of personnel working behind the counter. Every counter had one or two people there. Every counter was being utilized. Not sure about any of you, but whenever I go to the grocery store, Target or any place where I have to ‘check out,’ there always seems to be only one or two check out lanes open. Mind you, they have an abundance of check out lanes to use, but only one or two are open. So, of course, you get long lines at the one or two counters that are open, and rarely does the establishment open any additional check out lanes to ease the flow. Not the case here. Every counter was open and adequately supplied with staff.
Next, we bordered the plane. The first thing I noticed was their clothing. These had to be the most formal flight attendant outfits ever. A contemporary, business dress or suit, one of those handkerchief/scarf-thingies tied around their neck. Ladies, I don’t know what this is called, but you do, so work with me here. Their makeup, though it looked like they may have all used paintbrushes, was impeccable the entire 14-hour flight. Smiles. They were ALWAYS smiling. Asian cultures have some of the most incredible work ethics I have ever seen. They were always working. They perform their job functions and responsibilities superbly. Now, I’m not naïve. Chances are, they may all hate their jobs. But, you would have never, ever known they were aggravated or annoyed. If you needed something - you got it. Quickly, and with a smile.
So, we arrive in Tokyo, and then connect on another flight to Okinawa. The worst part of the trip was after the 24+ hours of travel, we arrived in Okinawa, loaded our bags into two small box trucks, then the Marines got onto a bus for the 90-minute trip to Camp Schwab. Not even 30 seconds into the trip, we haven’t gotten out of the airport area, the bus we are on slams into the back of one of the box trucks carrying our bags. We had to sit there for over 3 hours waiting for the situation to get sorted out, and for another bus to arrive that would take us to Okinawa.
While we have been in Okinawa we have been staying on Camp Schwab. Camp Schwab is one of several Marine Corps bases on Okinawa, and one of several US bases on Okinawa. Pretty much every service has some sort of facility here. CS is the smallest of the Marine Corps bases, and in some ways it reminds me of a college campus. Our lodging is much like a college dormitory: Two Marines to a room with your own bathroom, a desk, etc. It is fairly quiet on this base, and with weather and scenery much like that of Hawaii, it’s not a bad place to be. We haven’t done too much the last few days; just a couple of chores to get ready for our departure and that is it. We have a midnight curfew every day, and getting into town is a pain, as we do not have a car.
Nonetheless, a few of us headed out for most of the day Saturday to “take in the sights.” In order to do so, we had to first take about an hour bus ride, then a 10-minute taxi ride to an area called American Town. I’m not sure why it’s called American Town, I’m guessing just because there was some sort of mall, along with other street shopping, restaurants, etc. We quickly made our way to a local watering hole where we could partake in the local flavors – noodle dishes and cold beer. Both were delicious. The “mall” where we first stopped was similar to an American mall. You know, multi-level, lots of stores, a few places to eat, etc. For the most part, everything is just on a smaller scale – smaller building, smaller stores, smaller tables and chairs, etc. Everything is pretty much made for a Smurf.
After eating we meandered through the streets, take a look at a few shops here and there. Again, you’re not missing much. Obviously, I’m setting you up for a rapid change in the story.
There is an area of Okinawa called Gate 2 Street. It’s called Gate 2 Street because it is an area that sits just outside Gate 2 of the Air Force’s Kadena Air Base. Well, we must have been told numerous times by numerous different people to not go to Gate 2 Street. Apparently, its where a lot fights break out, and where locals typically prey upon Americans. Say no more. Taxi!!!
If you have ever been to Tijuana, then you know where this headed. If not, Gate 2 Street area is easy to describe. One long street of shops, bars, restaurants, and other ‘suspect’ establishments. A myriad of side streets and alleys cris-cross Gate 2 Street, with more of the same places to visit. Lots of neon, low hanging signs, and plotted trees filled the sidewalks. If you are looking for shopping deals, then this is a great place to shop. We, as you can imagine, were not interested in shopping.
We started looking around for places to go, careful to avoid any “yut, yut" bars.[Side note: A “yut, yut” is usually a young, immature Marine. Their ever-present high-and-tight haircuts, horrendous clothing and sense of style, and generally poor social skills characterize a “Yut-Yut”. They can often be seen walking around town carrying a Marine Corps-issued digital camouflage backpack. Yut-Yuts are the exact reason the Marine Corps has requirements for civilian attire.]
Fortunately there were five of us, and one friend, Tim, had once been stationed in Okinawa while on active duty a few years ago. So, he knew the area.
Karaoke. The five of us walked into a tiny little restaurant, sat down at the Smurf-sized bar stools, and asked for the catalogue. The Japanese woman who owned the restaurant knew how to deal with two things in broken English: money, and Bon Jovi. We went through most songs in the Bon Jovi catalogue, a few Pearl Jam songs, “More Than Words” by Extreme (a classic!), and of course, Billy Joel’s “Piano Man.” Yes, I have pictures and video.
Ok. Time to move on. This has been a fun afternoon already.
Now, before I get too deep into the details, there are a few caveats.
We were there in the afternoon, and we were gone by 9 PM.
We did not go to any of the places I am going to tell you about.
The first stop we made was at a tiny, “café.” This café served beer, and Habu Sake. We all know what Sake is, that’s nothing special. Habu Sake is named after the Habu Snake. A rather large, menacing, unfriendly snake, resembling something like a Cobra. Well, kind of like a worm in a tequila bottle, this Sake is stored in a giant Mason jar, with a very large Habu Snake coiled up in the bottom. From what our friend and guide told us, taking a shot of Habu Sake is kind of a rite of passage on the island. Again, this is obvious foreshadowing.
Absolutely disgusting. And the taste is not easily washed away or replaced. Okinawa: 1. Jason: 0.
In honesty, this was a neat little place. I actually bought a t-shirt from this joint for my Dad.
While we were clinching our jaws from the heinous taste of Habu Sake, Tim began to tell us about some of the places that were all around us. Again, we never went to any of these places. They were closed and didn’t open until later in the night.
“Drinky” Bar – an establishment that has a lot of Philipino women who are known to ‘hang out.’ I guess they approach you, saying “drinky, drinky.” And the jist of it is that you buy them a few drinks, and other things begin to follow. Figure it out.
“Soapie” Bar – this sounded like it would be more like what we know as “massage parlor.” In a ‘soapie bar,’ you pay a certain amount of money to take a bath. What you are paying for, though, is to be accompanied in this bathtub. Picture the scene in “Coming to America,” where Eddie Murphy is in the bathtub with several beautiful servants, when one breaks the surface of the water, stating “the royal penis is clean, your heiness.”
[Side note: After hearing the above two stories, I wasn’t sure whether to believe Tim. I mean, c’mon, right. So, I asked our Japanese bartender, who spoke less than broken English, whether what I was hearing was true. Upon asking him about a “drinky bar” and a “soapie bar,” he didn’t really have any idea what I was saying. But, he had no problem with a language barrier when I mentioned “banana show.” He immediately pointed us in the right direction.]
Banana Show – Simply, the banana show involves a 90+-year-old woman, bananas and vagina. As if that wasn’t enough to make you sick, the banana show ends with someone eating the banana.
Whisper Alley – this is a side street that apparently is full of prostitution. Because prostitution is not ‘legal,’ the women stand in their doorways, and whisper to passer-bys as their means of solicitation. My friend did say that Whisper Alley is actually very, very creepy. Uhh, really?
Like I said, we did not witness anything above, but this is Gate 2 Street.
Finally, the last place we visited, which I am happy to talk to you about, was a place called Mike’s Beer Garden. Mike is an American who spent several years in the Marine Corps, stationed in Okinawa. Mike married a local woman, and upon his discharge from the Marine Corps, has been living in Okinawa for years. Mike recently opened a really cool joint that serves beer and food. It’s an open-air place with no roof. It is located on top of a rooftop (hence, no roof), where Christmas tree lights cris-cross over your head, and tiki torches sit atop the wall around you. Plastic chairs and tables, and a classic American menu of burgers, grilled cheese sandwiches and French fries. I’m serious; Mike’s Beer Garden is must-see. Here’s his address:
www.mikesbg1@yahoo.comMike’s Beer Garden1-24-13 4F Chuo-Okinawa City(corner of BC Street & Park Avenue)
That’s kind it. Like I said, nothing too much to report. We were originally supposed to fly out tonight (Monday), but we have been pushed back to Tuesday morning. From here we’ll fly to Uzbekistan for +/- a day. Uzbekistan is to Afghanistan like Kuwait is to Iraq. It’s pretty much where everyone goes and waits his or her turn to fly “in country.” You could be there hours, a day or longer. Waiting.